Ireland, UK 2017: 5/13 Day 11 - Cornwall

"‘I never – want to leave – Cornwall,’ he said. ‘You’ve introduced me to Heaven.’

‘It isn’t – always – like this,’ she gasped. ‘Often it rains for ever. And usually it blows for ever.’"
~Winston Graham, Bella Poldark

Net distance traversed: 192 miles

Since Poldark brought us to Cornwall in the first place, it seemed only right to visit the Poldark Mine. Now, here is a place that is "properly signed." No mistaking where you are!

Of course, it wasn't always known as the "Poldark Mine." Once a working tin mine called Wheal Roots, it operated during the 1700's. In the 1970's, it served as the filming location for the BBC production of Poldark, a TV series based Winston Graham's historic fiction about a Cornish mine owner named Ross Poldark. With the popularity of the TV series, it opened to the public as Poldark Mine in 1977. After on and off operation as a mining museum, the mine was used in 2014 for filming sequences of a re-make of the Poldark series.  It has operated as a museum with tours open to the public since 2014.

We really couldn't tell you the criteria used to determine the most atmospheric mine tours, but we were suitably impressed with this one. (Personally, I think it beats the coal mining experience at Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry.)

Several of Winston Graham's books were launched at the mine, so of course they are sold in the gift shop!

Great place to learn the history.

While waiting for our tour, we bought coffee and tea. In Britain, one doesn't just buy a hot drink in a disposable cup, even if you're buying said drink from a concession stand.

Our tour guide shared his knowledge of historic mining methods AND his experience working with the cast and crew of the Poldark series. All traces of modern convenience (railings, lighting, wires, etc.) were covered and the coverings painted to blend in with the background. From the sound of it, the show does a decent job accurately depicting 18th century mining techniques

Examples of old ladders used in the mine.

The mines in Cornwall are often very wet. Pumps had to be run constantly to keep the tunnels from being flooded. During the recent filming, the pumps were shut off for 20 minutes to allow water to accumulate so the actors could slosh through. It took 4 hours to pump that same water back out again.

This is the spot Aidan Turner (as Ross Poldark) is seen hammering.

Not only can you stand where Aidan Turner stood, but the mine is available for wedding ceremonies in this very spot.

A few areas contain displays of working miners. Boys started working in the mines around age 9. Girls worked above ground as Bal maidens, breaking up the rock brought to the service and picking out the pieces containing ore.

Water wheels initially supplied the energy to run the pumps that would keep the mine dry.

Model of a mine.

The weather that morning and into early afternoon included intermittent periods of sun, followed by clouds and brief mist--a great day for a stroll along Kynance Cove beach. This location also appeared in the current Poldark
show, in some scenes as Nampara Cove.

Seriously the BEST lunch we've had on this trip--bacon, brie and cranberry chutney from the Kynance Café, at picnic tables on the beach.

Porthgwarra Beach, another location used as Nampara Cove in the show. The tide was starting to come in and the beach was covered in sea weed, so we didn't spend a long time here.

We experienced our first vacation rain in the late afternoon, making the tour of derelict mines wetter and colder than we might have liked. But you can't have perfect weather all the time!

Botallack mine area, near the area used in the show as Wheal Leisure.

Levant Mine and its buildings served as Tressiders Rolling Mill in the show

Wheal Coates.